The winter of 2015 saw a number of firsts for us; first major Australian holiday, first big trip for the D4 and first time towing the camper trailer (except for overnight). And it was almost 7,500km over four and a half weeks, all in our own state .... Brisbane to Cape York via the coast and returning via western Queensland. The camper trailer was a Wild Boar Forward Fold but is now sold. I will write up some details about it on a separate page and there's also a thread on the MySwag forum. This trip was also the culmination of a lot of preparation & planning for the Land Rover D4 to be well kitted for long distance travelling and towing. The Cape York section of this trip was not about undertaking challenging 4WD tracks such as the Old Telegraph Track or Old Coach Road but more about travelling through some of the many other amazing places on the Cape and in outback Queensland. However, we did have a couple of brief excursions to the OTT to get a little taste.
Days 1 to 3 - Brisbane to Calliope to Bowen to Cairns (535km, 629km, 560km)
We needed to get to Cooktown to meet up with our traveling companions to the Cape on Day 4, so didn't spend too much time getting up to Cairns. Just directly up the Bruce Highway. Of course this meant bypassing many interesting places and sights along the way but that's the way it has to be when you're on the annual leave clock. Calliope has an excellent free camp by the river, not too far off the highway. We were the only camper trailer in a sea of caravans.
It was good to get the first night done after so much anticipation for so long in planning this trip. But with good preparation it did feel like we hit a groove quite quickly, changing from thinking about it mode to doing it mode. For Day 2 in Bowen we stayed at the Big4 van park, which has an excellent location right on Queens Beach. Also worth checking out Rose Bay and Horseshoe Bay. You could stop for a few days at any of these places but not this trip. There's quite a few unknown and hidden gems along this part of the coast and Queens Beach is one of the few places on the east coast where you get an over-water sunset.
For Day 3 we made it to the Lake Placid Tourist Park just to the north side of Cairns. This was well located for heading to Cooktown the next day via the Bloomfield Track. Also looks to be a nice area to explore in its own right. Our site was right up the back and seemed to be almost in the rainforest that surrounds the park. By this stage we felt like it was actually the real start of the trip. It had been easy so far but .... doing the Bloomfield Track the next day. Stories we were hearing of river crossings, extreme steep hills .... it all sounded a bit exaggerated but then again, it's all new to us. I spose we'll soon find out.
Day 4 - 236km to Cooktown via Bloomfield Track
We really enjoyed the Captain Cook Highway up to Port Douglas from Cairns and noticed many awesome free camps along the way overlooking the ocean, again something for another time. Anyway, the Bloomfield Track was absolutely no problem at all. I assume it's the easiest time of the year (mid July). It was a beautiful drive along the coast and through the rainforest. Plus I didn't realise that north of Wujal Wujal was all bitumen. There is two "ranges" along the Bloomfield Track with Cowie Range being particularly steep. However it has been concreted so there are no traction issues at all. Just put her in low range and keep the revs in the sweet spot, at least that's the case for the D4. Here's what Emmagen Creek looks like this time of year. Other creeks were dry.
There was one rutted-out section on a steep descent that had obviously been chewed out by people going up the other way. I got to test out the HDC function properly for the first time and it is very very good, just walked through the holes and around a downhill corner. This is FNQ so obviously had a XXXX at the Lions Den after all that and then an easy run into Cooktown in the early afternoon.
We missed out a few things along the way that day being conscious of time and not sure of what was ahead of us at that stage, including Mossman, Daintree Village and things around Cape Tribulation. Although we did have a look at the beach at Cape Trib. It's nice but there is heaps of nice beaches in Queensland. I know it wasn't particularly difficult or remote but it still felt like a real accomplishment for us and we reckoned an excellent entree to the Cape.
In Cooktown we stayed at the Peninsular Van Park, which was excellent even with the snake in the toilet block. Checked out the usual Cooktown sites and especially loved the view from the lookout. This sign got me thinking about how amazing Capt Cook was. Mental note; track down a good Cook biography.
Day 5 - 141km into Lakefield National Park via Battlecamp Road
Now this feels like we're in FNQ. First stop was Isabella Falls.
Not too much water over the Normanby River crossing ...
We camped for the night at the 12 Mile Lagoon campsite at site #1.
It's 12 km down a track from the main Lakefield road and a fantastic site. In hindsight, this would have been a good place for 2 or even 3 nights rather than Capt Billys Landing .... but more on that in a later episode. Now that National Parks number the sites and require pre-booking it is useful to know which sites are the better ones. Well #1 at 12 Mile Lagoon is excellent and easily fits 2 or 3 camper trailers. It appeared that most of the adjacent sites looked pretty good too. It was nice to have quite a high embankment between us and the lagoon especially after we spotted a large croc in the binoculars. He then cruised past camp in the early evening while we were sitting having drinks, which made the fact of being in FNQ much more real. Those birds are either brave or crazy. A wildlife documentary right in front of us.
Another view from camp.
Day 6 - 75km to Hahn Crossing Campsite #11, Lakefield National Park
We traveled with two other vehicles; my dad and sister in Dad's old 100 series Landcruiser towing an AOR Quantum and some friends of Dads in an old Holden Colorado towing a Jayco pop-top. All are bird watchers so we learnt a lot about FNQ birds along the way. Today included bird watching stops at White Lily Lagoon, Red Lily Lagoon, Catfish Lagoon and Kennedy Crossing. Can't remember which one but one of them was absolutely teeming with birds. Here's some ducks photographed through a long range scope (important bird watching equipment).
Travelled through some typical FNQ open country with lots of termite mounds today too.
There was a very slight amount of dampness on the road in one small section due to a passing shower. I'd hate to see it properly wet, even that bit was scary.
The Hahn Crossing camp sites are also excellent. We had #11 which is on a rocky outcrop that fringes the lagoon. Beautiful spot. Didn't see any crocs even though many had been spotted here by Dad on a previous trip. Again we fitted all three trailers easily in the one site even though we booked three! Stupid system they've got going. If you insist on pre-booking online then provide sufficient information so that people can book properly. Jill makes a very good fire.
Watched this guy for ages just hovering on thermals looking for prey.It was a great day.
Day 7 - 202km to a free camp in the Coen River bed
Bird watching at Low Lake was very good and less so at Sweetwater Lake. We just enjoyed the views at both.
This was the first day we experienced some more serious and extended corrugations. I'm not greatly experienced with corros but they didn't seem too severe to me. The D4 handled it well but I also moderated the speed to be a bit "mechanically sympathetic" to the suspension. Sometimes our companions in the other cars couldn't even hear us on the UHF but in the D4 all was calm and quiet. Apparently this type of photo is mandatory.
Lunch was an excellent steak sandwich at the Musgrave Roadhouse, possibly this guy will be on the menu soon.
We continued on and free-camped in the riverbed of the Coen River, which is just north of the town over the bridge. The first section you come to is quite difficult to get in to compared to just further north, which we didn't realise until the next morning but that made for less neighbours. The river is really beautiful.
Camping out the back of the pub looked pretty good too. $5 per person including toilets and showers. We had a look at the area but decided on the quiet of the river.
Days 8 & 9 - 198km to Gordon Creek Campsite, Iron Range National Park
The road was pretty good all day with only small to medium corrugations. We fueled up at Archer River Roadhouse. Ouch. I hadn't thought about Russ Hinze in many years. But here's a big chair that the big man sat in when he was Minister for Everything and visited the roadhouse.
The Gordon Creek rainforest was damp and humid and plenty of mozzies. And this was mid-winter. But apparently the bird watching was really good. Didn't really get into that but we did enjoy the bush turkey antics around the camp. It is about 25 km from the famous Chilli Beach and the oddly named village of Portland Roads. We stayed here for two nights but for me, one would have been enough. Trouble is, it's a long way in from the main road so two nights was necessary. And on the positive side, it was good to have only a small drive the next day.
Total of 60km the following day down to Chilli Beach and around to the village of Portland Roads. It was nice to have a leisurely cooked breakfast and an easy drive. Very civilised.
Chilli Beach is pretty good but I have seen many good beaches in Queensland quite similar. Almost had the place to ourselves. Perhaps a benefit of traveling outside school holidays. Would be a windy campsite I think but not as windy as Capt Billys (more on that later, scared for life).
Portland Roads was something of a find. Dad had been told it was a dump and unfriendly. That's all wrong. It's nice and we had a good time at the little cafe. This is the view from the verandah and I think you can stay there too.
Did a few odd jobs back at camp, checking roof rack bolts etc. Thought about going to Lockhart River for a look but in the end just decided to sit around camp. That's often the choice to make, relaxing or seeing something else and you need to find a balance.
That's not technically one week but it was about one week of "proper" travelling under the belt. Really felt in the zone now.
Go to Week 2 for continuation of this trip report.
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