Day 15 - 22km Walk to St Mary’s Peak An all day hike with something like 900m of elevation gain is well outside of our current fitness comfort zone and we hadn’t done any preparation in the lead up other than the walks earlier this trip, so it was a bit daunting to start out on what we knew would be at least a 7 hour trek. But we wanted to give it a go based on all the great things we’d read and also the more recent feedback from Kirsty and Shane. We ended up being out for 7.5 hours that included about 30 minutes at the peak and I can safely say it was more than worth it. The scenery along the way was beautiful and the views at the top are epic. We followed the recommended route of outside track for the ascent and inside track for the return. The outside track starts out through the forest along the forested lower slopes of the pound before ascending relatively steeply up towards the rim.
As you get higher the track gets steeper and there’s a few sections that require scrabbling on all fours up steep rocky slopes, so it’s good that there’s excellent views to take in as an excuse to catch your breath. The path is well marked and easy to follow and is certainly easier to handle heading up, even though it’s a major aerobic workout.
In the end making the crest of the pound rim is quite sudden, you scramble up over a rocky ledge and the whole thing opens up in front of you like some kind of movie scene.
But that’s not the top. From this saddle there’s still plenty of climbing to make the peak via the 3.2km (return) track winding in and out of large rocky outcrops and then scaling the final inclined rock shelf. In the photo below you can see the inside track in the distance, which is the way we went to head down into the middle of the pound after summiting St Mary’s and returning to the saddle.
In a small stroke of luck I managed to spot two small lizards sunning themselves, not sure of species.
We got to the peak and just soaked it up for around half an hour. A few other people came along while we were there, which is not surprising considering the popularity of Wilpena Pound. In most directions you can see over the various mountain ranges in the area and it is also interesting to look out north-west into the nothingness of the desert and the faint shining white of Lake Torrens. In the other direction but not in this photo was an excellent view of the Bunyeroo Gorge we had walked through and driven down into a few days prior.
The walk down into the pound was quite hot and we were glad to have set out early and in winter. We passed 3 different couples heading in the opposite direction and reckon they would have got back in the dark, unless they turned around before the top.
The walk across the pound floor was relatively uninteresting through pine forest and flat open country with minimal views and it was really good to eventually make it back to camp to relax. The last section close to the resort is quite sanitised with wide open gravel pathway but this was actually appreciated in our worn out and foot sore state. It really is well worth the effort but it’s not a small undertaking and enough food and water should be carried for a 7-8 hour strenuous day out. There are also a number of other shorter walks to closer peaks around the pound rim but we didn't have time to do any more on this trip. The one closest to the resort looked like it would be an excellent view from the top.
Watched a roo and joey from my camp chair that evening, which was about all I could manage at that stage.
Day 16 - 128km Skytrek 4WD Track on Willow Springs Station Skytrek was something I had been looking forward to for the whole trip and it delivered. It is probably the most famous of the Flinders Ranges private 4WD tracks, not sure if it’s the first. The organisation is very good with a well thought out brochure highlighting points of interest along the way. There’s nothing too technical in the way of 4WD’ing but lots of interesting sights and scenery. We also noticed that their bush camping options seem to have gone ahead in recent times. There's lots of sites and they look really good, all very separate from each other & in nice settings. The Skytrek loop itself was around 88km and we had around 20km each way to get there from Wilpena Pound.
This dry creek bed was our lunch stop which has a convenient drop toilet (down the creek a bit) and a couple of picnic tables.
This strange cloud formation was hanging around for most of the drive. It threatened but didn't rain until right near the end within site of the homestead.
Had a minor struggle with a cocky gate.
One creek bed was bound by an amazingly vivid rainbow coloured bank of ochre. This went on for a few hundred metres at least.
This encounter was really exciting. Driving along near the end and we spot an echidna waddling down the track. Came to a quick stop and jumped out to watch him making his (or her, who knows) way through the countryside stopping to look for ants under rocks. Apparently echidna sighting are improving but still relatively rare.
And finally, posing awkwardly in front of the striking artwork by the front gate with an ominous sky behind. We got a little rain overnight.
Day 17 - Rest day Got some chores done and visited the Wilpena Homestead in between light rain showers. Also did some planning for the route home.
Day 18 - 670km Wilpena to Wilcannia Long driving day south and then west into NSW. The countryside south of Wilpena slowly changed into the wide open spaces of crop farming. Fueled up in Yunta and drove straight through Broken Hill, which is a bit of a shame but that will have to be another trip. Stayed the night at Warrawong on the Darling just outside Wilcannia where we had also spent a night last year before heading up to Tibooburra. It really has the best facilities we have seen anywhere. Huge shower rooms, well equipped camp kitchen and a friendly communal happy hour. The van sites are nice flat grassed plots and there's also bush camping sites around a lagoon. Day 19 - 415km to Carrawinya National Park via White Cliffs and Wanaaring Back on the dirt again for a nice driving day over generally good roads and wide open outback scenery.
The return to White Cliffs was for a a particular reason. Jill had wished she'd bought some of the beautiful opal earrings at Red Earth Opal after we left there last year. They are from the mine of the owners and are polished and set in White Cliffs. They are a really nice couple and it would have been great to have a night there so as to fit in the afternoon mine tour. Anyway, got the earrings and had a good chat over a coffee about all things opal and then we were on our way north again.
The road to Wanaaring was in good condition and there wasn't much traffic. Fueled up and had a quick lunch and a pit stop at the a personalised loo.
From Wanaaring it was a good run up to the Queensland border at Hungerford.
I'd read a really good book about the dog fence during the trip and this was the second direct encounter with it for this trip.
Currawinya National Park is not far up the road from the Hungerford Gate towards Eulo and we found a good spot by Ourimperee Waterhole.I had read good things about the birdlife but to be honest there wasn't much. We were happy with just one night.
Day 20 - 470km to St George Took the back road through a couple of stations to get to Eulo and this worked out really well thanks to the well maintained road. Last sighting of baby emus
And a few adults at the Caltex in Cunnamulla.
Stayed at a very nice little caravan park in St George, the Kamarooka Tourist Park.
Day 21 - 420km to Stanthorpe via Goondiwindi We always like staying in Stanthorpe so had decided to head there rather than push all the way home to Brisbane. Took the scenic route following the border to get to Texas and then the windy and hilly road from there to Stanthorpe. We stayed at Top of Town caravan park in one of their nice little bush setting sites.
Day 22 - 210km to Brisbane The end of another great trip with a very familiar drive. Here's the overall summary repeated from the first post. Brisbane > Innamincka via Goondiwindi, Cunnamulla & overnighting in Bollon Innamincka > Coongie Lake Coongie Lake > Mt Hopeless via the Old Strzelecki Track Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary for 4 nights Gammon Ranges National Park Warraweena Conservation Park Flinders Ranges National Park Wilpena Pound for 4 nights Wilpena > Cunnamulla via White Cliffs and Currawinya National Park Stanthorpe Total km: 5,298 km Days: 22
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